Jose Antonio Canada Gil ‘Pepe’, lives on what feels the edge of the world, as distant as can be from the pressures of modern life and our influences upon it. His cellar lies on high above the river Minho, where it flows with full force on its last 45 kilometres from the Atlantic, through steep valleys of verdant pine, eucalypt, fern, camellia and vine. The granite formed landscape is both mystical and imposing, the views across the river serving to accentuate this, being of the rising mountains of the National Park of Penede Geres in Portugal. It is no wonder that this is where Vega Sicilia have chosen to build a new cellar and snap up vineyards (although not the best ones, as they are Jose’s, he says with a wry smile!)

Jose farms 5 hectares over 23 plots around the village of Crecente, where he grew up, and where his family still live. His background is in construction, being a welder for specialist projects in the oil industry in Spain and Scotland. His imposing build underscores this past, but his beaming smile and generous nature speak of the pleasure he has found in his new life as a winemaker. The family have always grown vines, but he is the first, in 2016, to bottle with his own label.

The vineyards sit on granite, each one a special parcel with its own unique character. His preference is away from Pergola training, mostly because he feels in Condado de Tea, the sub-zone of Rias Baixas he is located in, the dry winds help to keep mildew away and pergolas produce too much uneven ripening in the crop. He also prefers trellising as he doesn’t bang his head on the over-head vines. Pockets of Alluvial soil from ancient flooding make for perfect Brancellao vineyards, of which he has some of the oldest in the region, but it is the granitic sandy and clay that is most prevalent, and where you find the Albarino of the area.

The cellar has enough capacity for around 20,000 bottles, although currently he produces just 12,000. He favours stainless steel for his wines but is experimenting with Acacia (one barrel of Albarino) and a little oak for his red blend. It is a path he us undecided on, but on tasting an unoaked, light footed Brancellao from stainless steel, it is obvious that he prefers this pure, fresh more detailed style for his reds. Ferments are natural and he only makes a light filtration when the DO calls for it (they can be very tricky on the subject).

Pepe’s life and work are intertwined and it is obvious when visiting his village how much he is appreciated and admired, which he beams back in generosity and good humour. He is on the start of his journey, but it is likely to be a very long and happy one.