Christophe Muret was once the biggest exporter of melons in France, apparently selling over a million a year to the UK alone. He lived in Moissac, famous for Chasselas eating grapes and once he decided enough was enough, he sold up and moved to the hills where Picpoul de Pinet is made. Here he set up his own wine producing domaine, an enterprise that yields nowhere near the profits of melons, but far more lifestyle and so he continues on his path.

His enthusiasm for his vines, which he cultivates on a minimal intervention principle (and is in effect organic), is infectious, but it is his love of Syrah that is absolutely fantastic. When he talks of Syrah it is as if the volume is turned up to 11, and on visiting the vineyards it is easy to see how he can fuel this love. His vines are set upon a garrigue filled outcrop of red clay and limestone, exposed to cooling winds which help to retain freshness in the wines. In the cellar he is playful and humble, tasting with us every cuvée of Syrah he is experimenting with, be it in tank, barrel, extended skin contact or a cuvée from dried grapes, and seeking our thoughts and approval. This of course is not needed, but it is a sign that he is still seeking the perfect way to express the variety and the terroir, and will never stop trying.